Anything but Chardonnay, ABC – a phrase that many wine enthusiasts may remember from the 90s. The saying was coined due to a large movement against the overoaked, extracted Chardonnays that began to dominate shelves and wine lists at the time. This Zeitgeist was aptly captured in the 2004 film Sideways, in which the main character expresses his woes to the prevailing style of Chardonnay – “No, no, no. I like all varietals. I just don’t generally like the way they manipulate Chardonnay in California. Too much oak.”
While this movement is now over 20 years in the past, its effects are far from gone. If anything – we are experiencing a sort of “rebirth”, or perhaps an aftershock. There is, however, a noticeable difference in today’s wine options compared to those of 30 years ago. While Chardonnay’s decline allowed Pinot Grigio and – to a higher degree – Sauvignon Blanc to establish themselves, consumers today are becoming increasingly adventurous in their choices.
While an average wine list 20 years ago may have featured one or two white wines (almost always a Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio or Riesling), increasingly lists are experimenting with different options. In a world where consumers have less preconceptions, the difference between a Pinot Grigio and a Grillo, for example, is quite insignificant. Furthermore, the data seems to back this up. According to Circana, Jackson Family wines showed 13.8% growth in White blends. Even more compelling is broader data from Numerator showing that Chenin Blanc sales grew 22% in 2025. These trends may be reflective of the fact that these lesser-known white varieties offer fantastic quality at lower prices than their more popular relatives. Look no further than Dry Creek Vineyards or L’Ecole 41 Chenin Blanc, both of which can be found on shelves often under $20.
Looking at more “grassroots” data from wine shop and bar operators, there are even more interesting discoveries – a simple question of “what’s selling” posted on a wine forum yielded fascinating answers. “Chenin and bubbles” wrote one user, with Sancerre being a popular answer as well. Another commenter simply responded “Gruner” – referring to Gruner Veltliner, a crisp, medium bodied white wine most often associated with Austria. Overall, the combination of hard data with the word on the street shows that not only are white wines maintaining popularity, but that consumers are becoming increasingly interested in new, exciting white wines. That, however, does not mean Chardonnay has lost its place.
Wine is often compared to music, and like any great musician Chardonnay is not simple and one dimensional. It is multifaceted, and able take on a wide variety of characteristics depending not only on where it is made, but how it’s made. This is the case with all wine, but it is particularly apparent in Chardonnay. A great example of this is the classic Chablis conversation: a customer says they despise Chardonnay but adore Chablis – despite Chablis being produced exclusively from Chardonnay.
There are many people who have had Chardonnays they dislike; this is true. But the reason for this is the same exact reason Chardonnay is the most popular white grape. Just as there is a style of Chardonnay that is the opposite of any given individual’s tastes, there is also a style of Chardonnay perfectly suited to those tastes. This is why Chardonnay, despite its rocky reputation, still has a place on every wine list, and every store shelf. It is all about finding the right style for the situation.
The only way to truly understand this is by comparative tasting. A warm climate California Chardonnay from Napa or Sonoma will be fuller bodied, and typically have a higher oak presence. Willamette Valley Chardonnay will have slightly less ripeness and usually show less oak. Burgundy has 3 distinct styles. First there is the unoaked, high acid wines coming from Chablis. Moving south to the Cote D’or the Chardonnays display opulence walking a tightrope with acidity and structure. To the far south is the Maconnais, where the Chardonnays display aspects of both Chablis and the Cote D’or with a charming approachability. Look beyond these places and you will find Chardonnay almost everywhere, from the Italian alps to England, from Tuscany to Michigan. All these have their own distinct style and bring something unique to the table. This is all to say that Chardonnay has rightfully earned its place, and if anything deserves to be included in the quest to find more interesting white wines. Once again, at Great Lakes Wine and Spirits we are here to help you along every step of the way. Next time you see your rep, be sure to ask them to bring a bottle of their favorite Chardonnay – you will almost certainly be pleasantly surprised.
Chardonnay examples:
California:
- Freemark Abbey Chardonnay
- Hartford Court Chardonnay, Russian River Valley
- Brewer Clifton Chardonnay, Sta Rita Hills
Oregon
- Lingua Franca “Avni” Chardonnay
- Rex Hill Chardonnay
Burgundy
- Vocoret Chablis
- Joseph Drouhin Cote de Beaune Blanc
- Louis Jadot Macon Villages
Beyond
- Girlan Chardonnay, Alto Adige Italy
- Black Star Farms Barrel Aged Chardonnay, Michigan
- Felino Chardonnay, Argentina
- Giant Steps Circle of Fifths Chardonnay, Yarra Valley Australia